There is no strict demarcation line between areas of habitation and dense forests. We did not even notice when we had crossed that line. A narrow canal goes right; we take that route. After an hour and a half, we reach Baliamrabeti. The forest opposite to this is Pirkhali. The tiger habitation starts from here.Visibility is poor because of the dense forests. Bees are in the air. We reach Sudhanyakhali.Only the sound of the boat engine breaks the silence.The boatman continues with his lessons on the trees and the quality of honey from the different types.

Another boat approaches us from the opposite side. There are four men. Two of them are rowing while one is eating.The other is guarding his catch of fish. The catch has been minimal, their conversation reveals. They move away from our boat towards the jungle side. But their curioisity is evident. Our boatman wants to return since it is evening. After dinner, I catch up on my sleep but wake up at 4 in the morning; it is chilly but the sunrise is extravagant in its splendour. There is a watchtower at Sajnekhali and a tourism centre. We had stayed overnight in the boat cabin at Pakhiralaya.

Among the watchtowers, tourists are allowed only at Sajnekhali, Sudhanyakhali and Netidhopani. The watchtower is encircled by iron railings and it is difficult to make it to the top.It is almost like the Tiger Hill experience in Darjeeling. The only difference is that the radiance of the sun is replaced here by the ferocity of the tiger.There have been many who have come here many times but have been denied a sighting. The forest officials, six or seven in number, stay in a boat nearby. Tigers do not need tickets to visit them, they joke.

The crocodile farm is at the end of the Patharpratima island. You can sight some crocodiles here.For those interested there are many travel agencies taking tourists to the Sunderbans as also the state tourism department. It cost around rs 300 per head for a trip of two days.

SOME ADDRESSES FOR FURTHER ENQUIRIES:

The West Bengal Tourist centre                                             Himanchura Travels & Tours

3\2 B.B.D.Bagh (East)                                                           P-263 C I T Road, Scheme - IV (M)

Calcutta -700001                                                                   Calcutta - 700010

Phone: 248-8271                                                                   Phone : 3508004, Fax : 3504864

Pugmarks Nature Resort          

10,Meher Ali Road

Calcutta 700001

Tele Fax: 240-7737

Wayfarer India

6B,Sultan Alam Road

Calcutta 700033